Parades and performances
Update 2: Montevideo
We’re one month into our digital nomad lives
We’re working from a co-working space a short walk from our AirBnB, which gives us a nice rhythm for our Monday to Friday. Get up and out of the house, stop for a coffee at a local café, take advantage of the fast internet and good aircon at the office, and then wander home. The combination of this routine and the general vibe of Montevideo has made us feel settled here surprisingly quickly and easily.
In March we’re changing accommodation and moving to a different suburb, so we’ll see how we continue to adapt!
Drums, samba, parodies, and crowds
Carnaval is in full swing! In Uruguay, carnaval is a combination of parades, group performances on stages around the city, and practice sessions in the streets. We’ve been figuring out the program (finding the right Instagram accounts was the key) and learning how to navigate the city. Below are some of our highlights.
Parades
The Opening Parade (El Desfile Inaugural de Carnaval) was our first taste of the many kinds of performers and groups that create the carnaval events. The parade showcases drumming groups, dancers, singers, and groups from the range of performance categories such as murgas, parodists, and comedians.
The Parade of Calls (El Desfile de Llamadas) was the most intense of the carnaval events we’ve been to so far. This parade brings together all of the candombe groups, so that more than 2,500 drums sound in unison and more than 6,000 people parade along a 10-block route.1 It was incredibly popular and we didn’t get tickets to the seated area nor there early, so we got to experience the authentic crush of people on the street.
After being squashed against the wall many times by people trying to navigate the crowd and find a good spot, we managed to make our way forward. We found a place standing behind the three lines of chairs along the barrier that the early-birds were enjoying. From there it was much more enjoyable and we had a great view.
The candombe groups all create unique stories as part of their performance, but have a consistent structure in the parade: flags, dance troupe, stock characters (the Old Mother, the Herb doctor and the Broomsman), the samba dancers, and finally the drummers.
Practice sessions
In the weeks before the Parade of Calls, the candombe groups practice their routines in the streets around Barrio Sur. These practice sessions become informal street parties, people bring their beach chairs, snacks, and hangout with their friend while watching the groups. If you want, you can also follow the group on their route, making a mobile street party that stops buses and delivery drivers along the way.
We followed a group along their whole route and got to see their performance cycle three times.
Stage performances
There are stage performances (tablados) of four to five groups at different locations around the city almost every night. Tablados can include a a few different types of musical theatre disciplines which are unique to Uruguay, including murga, humorista, parodista, revista, and comparsa.
We visited our first tablado at the Carnaval Museum, so got to enjoy the exhibits at the same time as the performances.
The performance we went to was all murga groups, and their singing is incredible! We couldn’t understand much of the content - even Spanish speakers need to be very familiar with Uruguayan politics and society - as the songs are full of puns, references, and critique of current events.
Day of Iemanjá
On the 2nd of February every year, there is a celebration of the goddess of the sea Iemanjá. The origins of the celebration go back to the Yoruba mythology, which came to Uruguay with survivors of the slave trade during the colonial era. Celebrations include making offerings to the sea, spiritual cleansing, lighting candles and dancing on the beach.
A daytrip to Punta Del Este
We met some lovely people while at the Iemanjá celebration who were shocked we planned to only stay in Montevideo during our time in Uruguay. They offered to take us to Punta del Este, a popular beachside and resort town about 2 hours from Montevideo. We accepted and had a great day exploring the beachside area.
You can see Dave holding a maté gourd and thermos of hot water in the photo above. These are the must-have accessories for any Uruguayan, and the easiest way of identifying a true local. Maté is a native herb drink, high in caffeine and quite bitter. It’s very popular in Uruguay and Argentina. In Montevideo, people walk, work, and drive motorcycles whilst enjoying maté. We’re not fully adapted yet - we’re still coffee drinkers.
Quick updates
TV show recommendation: A Perfect Story (Netflix)
Spanish language, light romance, great ending. Aisling binged it in a weekend.Burger tally: 6
Craft beer recommendation: Bizarra Amber Ale
Dave confidently told a waitress it is his favourite Uruguayan beer.Dave’s Duolingo streak: 705
Want more photos?
https://www.descubrimontevideo.uy/desfile-de-llamadas